Uluwatu Beach Guide: How to Choose the Right Cove by Tide, Swell and Mood
Uluwatu beach is really a dozen coves on Bali’s Bukit Peninsula. Here’s how to choose by tide, swell, stairs and who’s coming, plus an easy south-coast day from Ubud.
Uluwatu beach is really a dozen coves on Bali’s Bukit Peninsula. Here’s how to choose by tide, swell, stairs and who’s coming, plus an easy south-coast day from Ubud.
On Saraswati, Saturday October 31, Ubud families lay their books on the shrine with offerings, and for one day nobody reads. Then comes the dawn water of Banyu Pinaruh.
The street is still cool when you arrive. A woman in a white blouse kneels on the stone step, sets down a small square of palm leaf holding rice, a few petals and a curl of incense, and flicks water over it with a frangipani flower. Behind her rises a red-brick gate carved so densely…
Days before Purnama, the full moon, white lace blouses appear on the washing lines of Ubud and the whole village starts counting toward one of Bali’s holiest days.
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Most afternoons in the village pavilion, small girls learn Balinese dance one wrist, one thumb and one flick of the eyes at a time.
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Just after dark, a spoon taps a bowl somewhere down the lane. The bakso cart is coming, and for ten minutes the village street becomes a kitchen.
Around half past four, when the heat finally loosens its grip, a new sound drifts over the rice fields. A dull thup. A pause. Another thup, then a shout, then a burst of laughter that carries a surprisingly long way. Somewhere past the last compound wall, the village is playing volleyball. Follow the sound down…
Around midday the village lane fills with schoolchildren walking home in red and white, and the warmest hello in Ubud comes from someone half your height.