Bali Weather in December: What Ubud Really Feels Like in the Rainy Season

Picture a December morning in Ubud. The sky over the rice fields is rinsed clean and blue, the air smells of wet earth and frangipani, and somewhere down the valley a rooster is arguing with a gamelan rehearsal. By three in the afternoon the clouds have stacked up over the hills, and the rain arrives all at once, loud on the roof, warm as bathwater. By dusk it’s gone and the frogs have taken over. That, more or less, is Bali weather in December: not a washed-out month, but one with a rhythm you can learn in a day and enjoy for the rest of your stay.

Most December guides are written from the beach clubs of the south, where rain gets in the way of the plan. This one comes from the team at a staffed villa in the rice fields outside Ubud, where we watch the season arrive every year. Below you’ll find the honest numbers, what a real December day feels like in the highlands, who December suits (and who it doesn’t), how Christmas and New Year’s Eve feel in Ubud, the crowd and traffic picture, rainy-day ideas, and a packing list built for the wet season.

Bali Weather in December at a Glance

December sits in the heart of Bali’s wet season, which broadly runs from November through March. Here’s what the averages say, with one important caveat: different weather services measure at different stations, so the published numbers vary. Treat these as ranges, not promises.

• Daytime temperatures: roughly 29–31°C (84–88°F) on the coast. Ubud usually runs a degree or two cooler in the day.
• Nights: around 24°C (75°F) by the sea. In Ubud, evenings feel noticeably fresher, especially after rain.
• Rainfall: published averages range from about 120 mm to nearly 300 mm for the month, falling over roughly 16 to 22 wet days.
• Humidity: high, typically around 80–90%. You’ll feel it most in the still hours just before a storm.
• Sunshine: about 12 to 13 hours of daylight, with several hours of real sun on most days, mostly in the morning.
• Sea temperature: warm, around 28–29°C, though runoff can make the water murkier for diving and snorkeling.

Ubud vs the coast in December

Here’s the part most guides skip. Ubud sits inland, in the foothills that rise toward the island’s volcanoes, so it gets more rain than the southern beaches. Nusa Dua and the Bukit Peninsula tend to stay drier. That sounds like a point for the coast, until you notice what the extra rain gives Ubud: cooler air, rice terraces in their brightest green, rivers running full, and waterfalls at their most dramatic. On the coast, December can feel sticky and crowded. In the highlands, it feels lush and a little softer.

If you’d like the full picture across the year, our month-by-month guide to Ubud and our general guide to the weather in Ubud put December in context.

A December Day in Ubud, Hour by Hour

The question we hear most from guests planning a December trip is a version of the one people ask online: will I spend my whole holiday watching the rain? The honest answer is no. All-day rain does happen, a handful of times a month, but the typical December day in Ubud follows a pattern you can plan around.

6:00 to 11:00, the golden window

Mornings are often the clearest part of the day. The light comes in low and gold over the paddies, mist lifts off the river valleys, and the air is cool enough for a long walk. This is the time for a rice-field trek, a temple visit before the crowds, or an early drive to a viewpoint. In the garden, the gardener is already sweeping fallen frangipani off the paths while the kitchen fills with the smell of coffee and banana pancakes.

11:00 to 14:00, the build

Clouds start to gather over the hills to the north. The air thickens. Birds go quiet. If you’re out, this is a good moment to head back toward lunch. Locals read these signs without thinking about them, and so will you after a couple of days.

14:00 to 17:00, the downpour

When the rain comes, it really comes: heavy, straight down, loud on every leaf and roof tile. It is also warm, and it usually lasts an hour or two rather than all afternoon. From a covered terrace, with a book, a cup of ginger tea and the pool hissing under the rain, it’s one of the most relaxing hours of the trip. For many people it ends up being their favorite part of the day.

17:00 onward, the frog chorus

As the storm passes, the garden drips and steams, the temperature drops, and the frogs begin. Evenings are often clear again, perfect for dinner out in town or, better still, dinner cooked at home. If you want to know what this sounds like, we wrote about the frog chorus that starts the moment the rain stops.

The simple rule: do your exploring in the morning, keep your afternoons slow, and save evenings for food and culture. Follow that, and December’s rain rarely takes anything away from your trip.

Is December a Good Time to Visit Bali? Honest Pros and Trade-offs

Whether Bali weather in December works for you depends entirely on what you want from your trip. December is wonderful for some travelers and frustrating for others. Here’s the honest version.

Why December can be a beautiful choice

• The island is at its greenest. Months of dry-season dust are washed away. The terraces, gardens and jungle around Ubud look freshly painted.
• Waterfalls are at full power. The falls near Ubud that trickle in September roar in December.
• The air is cleaner and cooler after each storm, especially in the highlands.
• It’s a natural fit for slow travel. Spa afternoons, cooking, reading, swimming in the rain. December rewards travelers who don’t need to fill every hour.
• The holiday mood is gentle in Ubud. You can enjoy the season without the party scene, if you want to.

The trade-offs to know about

• Rain is daily, or close to it. If your dream trip is all-day beach lounging under clear skies, the dry months (roughly May to September) will suit you better.
• The second half of December is busy and expensive across Bali, as school holidays and Christmas travel arrive.
• Some activities depend on the weather. Sunrise treks, river rafting and certain waterfall trails can be postponed or closed after heavy rain. Build flexibility into your plans.
• Diving and snorkeling visibility is often reduced near river mouths and on some coasts.

Who December suits best

Couples who want a slower, more romantic trip. Families and friend groups who want to spend the holidays together under one roof rather than in separate hotel rooms. Wellness seekers who want spa, yoga and quiet. Anyone escaping a northern winter who is happy to trade a few dry afternoons for green fields and warm rain. For a deeper look at the whole season, see our Bali rainy season guide, and for a year-round comparison, our guide to the best time to travel to Bali.

Christmas and New Year’s Eve in Ubud

Bali is a mostly Hindu island, so Christmas isn’t a local tradition in the way it is at home. But Indonesia recognizes Christmas Day as a public holiday, and in the tourist areas you’ll find decorations, festive menus and New Year’s Eve celebrations everywhere. In the south, that means big beach-club parties, fireworks over the sand, sold-out countdowns and traffic that barely moves. Ubud offers a different kind of holiday.

A quieter kind of Christmas

In Ubud, Christmas tends to feel personal rather than public. Some restaurants and cafes put on special dinners, a few hotels decorate, and you may spot creative takes on the Christmas tree woven from coconut leaves. Mostly, though, village life carries on: offerings on the doorstep at dawn, ceremonies at the local temple, the gamelan practicing in the banjar hall. Many guests find this mix of familiar and unfamiliar moving, a holiday that feels like a holiday without feeling like a shopping mall.

Holidays at home, in a staffed villa

For families and friend groups, December is when a private villa makes the most sense. Instead of booking several rooms and trying to find a restaurant table for eight on Christmas Eve, everyone shares one home. Kids swim while the rain falls, grandparents nap in the afternoon, and dinner happens around one long table. If you’d like a holiday meal cooked in the villa, our chef is happy to talk through menus with you before you arrive, whether that’s a Balinese feast, grilled fish from the morning market, or something closer to home. Learn more about what that looks like in our guide to a private chef villa in Ubud, and for family travel specifically, our guide to family villas in Ubud.

New Year’s Eve, Ubud style

Ubud has its own New Year’s celebrations: dinners in town, a few parties, and fireworks you’ll hear popping across the valleys at midnight. But many visitors deliberately choose Ubud for the evening because it’s calmer. You can see in the year at a restaurant, at a cultural performance, or from your own pool deck with a glass of something cold. No queues, no long drives home at 2 a.m. Event programs change every year, so check the latest listings closer to the date. We’re always glad to share what’s on when you’re here.

A note on Balinese ceremonies

Balinese religious festivals like Galungan and Kuningan follow the 210-day Pawukon calendar, so their dates shift every year and don’t always land in December. Temple anniversaries (odalan) happen all year round, and you may well see a procession pass by. If seeing a ceremony matters to you, ask us before you travel and we’ll let you know what we expect during your dates. Our guide to Galungan in Bali explains what the festival means.

December Crowds, Traffic and Booking Early

When people plan around Bali weather in December, they often forget that the crowds matter as much as the clouds. December is really two months in one. The first two weeks are often relaxed, with the wet season settling in and visitor numbers still moderate. From around the middle of the month, school holidays in Australia and the northern-hemisphere Christmas break fill the island, and the period from Christmas through New Year’s Day is one of the busiest of the year.

What that means on the ground

• Traffic: roads in the south (Seminyak, Canggu, Kuta) slow to a crawl at peak times, and central Ubud’s main streets get congested in the late afternoon. Rain makes it slower still.
• Airport transfers: allow extra time in both directions, especially around Christmas and New Year. Our guide to how far Ubud is from the airport covers routes and timing.
• Popular sights: the Monkey Forest, Tegallalang and the famous swings are busiest from mid-morning. Go early, or choose quieter alternatives.
• Restaurants: book ahead for Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and New Year’s Eve.

How to make December feel calm

Stay in one place rather than moving every two nights. Use a private driver for day trips so you can leave early and come home before the afternoon storm. Plan one outing a day, not three. And choose a base where staying in is a pleasure in itself, with space to spread out, a pool to swim in, and people who look after the details so you don’t have to.

Book early for the holidays

Flights and accommodation across Bali fill up for the second half of December, so if your dates are fixed, it pays to plan several months ahead. Prices for the peak holiday period are generally higher than the rest of the year everywhere on the island. For a broader sense of trip costs, see our honest guide to Bali travel prices, and for money matters on the ground, our guide to the Balinese currency.

What to Do in Ubud When It Rains

A wet afternoon in Ubud isn’t something to wait out. It’s an invitation to do the things Ubud does best.

Cook something Balinese

There’s no better way to spend a storm than grinding base genep, the fragrant Balinese spice paste, in a stone mortar while the rain drums outside. Ubud has excellent cooking schools, many of which start with a morning market visit. Our Balinese cooking class guide covers the options, or, if you’re staying with us, ask the chef whether you can join them in the kitchen for a dish or two.

Book a long spa afternoon

Ubud is one of the best places in Asia for traditional massage and body treatments, and a rainy afternoon is the perfect time for a two-hour Balinese massage and a flower bath. See our guide to traditional spa in Ubud for what to expect and how to choose. Many therapists can also come to the villa.

Watch a dance performance

Evening performances at the Ubud Palace and village stages are a highlight of any trip, and most take place after the afternoon storms have passed. Some venues are covered, and a few performances may be moved or cancelled in very heavy rain. Our guide to the Kecak dance in Ubud is a good place to start.

See the waterfalls at their fullest, safely

December is when the waterfalls around Ubud are most spectacular. Go in the morning, when trails are drier and the water is calmer. After heavy rain, water levels can rise very quickly and become dangerous, so never swim in a fall or river pool after a storm, always follow local guidance, and skip a trail if it’s closed. Our Ubud waterfall guide covers the best falls near town.

Do nothing at all

Swim in the rain. Read in a daybed. Nap. Watch the garden turn a deeper green. In December, this isn’t wasted time. It’s the reason many people come.

What to Pack for Bali Weather in December

Packing for the wet season is simple once you accept two facts: you will get wet, and it will be warm. Pack light, quick-drying and easy to wash.

Clothing

• Linen and cotton shirts, dresses and loose trousers. Avoid denim, which stays damp for days in the humidity.
• A light, packable rain jacket or poncho. Umbrellas are useful in town but awkward on trails and motorbikes.
• One light layer for Ubud evenings and air-conditioned cars.
• A sarong, needed for temple visits and endlessly useful as a towel, scarf or cover-up.
• Swimwear, at least two sets so one can dry.

Shoes

• Waterproof sandals with good grip for daily wear.
• Light trail shoes if you plan to trek or visit waterfalls. Paths get slippery fast.

Extras worth bringing

• A dry bag or zip-lock bags for your phone and passport.
• Reef-safe sunscreen and a hat. The sun is strong between showers.
• Insect repellent for the evenings.
• Any personal medication, plus rehydration salts.
• A good book or two for the afternoon storms.

For a complete list, see our full guide to what to pack for Bali.

Bali Weather in December: Frequently Asked Questions

Does it rain all day in Bali in December?

Rarely. Most December days follow a pattern of clear or partly cloudy mornings, a heavy storm in the afternoon or evening lasting an hour or two, and clearing skies afterward. There will usually be a few properly grey, rainy days during the month, so build some flexibility into your plans.

Is it too hot in Bali in December?

Daytime highs are around 29–31°C on the coast, and the humidity makes it feel warmer. Ubud’s inland position makes it a little cooler, and evenings after rain are pleasantly fresh. Most visitors find it comfortable, especially with a pool close by.

Can you still swim in December?

Yes. Pools are lovely all month, including in the rain, and the sea stays warm. On some beaches, runoff after heavy rain can bring debris and murky water, and currents can be strong, so always swim where conditions are safe and follow lifeguard flags.

Is Bali crowded in December?

The first half of December is usually manageable. From mid-December through New Year’s Day, Bali is very busy, especially in the south. Ubud is busy too, but staying outside the town center in the rice fields keeps the crowds at a comfortable distance.

Is Ubud or the beach better in December?

The southern beaches get a little less rain, but they are also where the holiday crowds and traffic are heaviest. Ubud is wetter but greener, cooler and calmer, and it has more to do when it rains: spas, cooking, culture and food. Many travelers split their time, with most nights in Ubud and a few at the coast.

Is December the rainy season in Bali?

Yes. December falls in the middle of the wet season, which broadly runs from November to March, with January and February often the wettest months.

Final Thoughts: Let December Be December

The secret to enjoying Bali weather in December is to stop fighting it. Get up early and give the mornings to the rice fields. Let the afternoons be slow, the kind of slow you never get at home. Eat well in the evenings, sleep to the sound of rain, and wake up to a valley that looks newly made.

December in Ubud isn’t the Bali of postcards with endless blue skies. It’s something more intimate: warm rain, wet frangipani, steam rising off the pool, a long table of people you love, and a team in the background making sure the coffee is hot and the towels are dry. If that sounds like your kind of holiday, we’d love to help you plan it.